If you have searched online for the “best catapult” and come away more confused than when you started, you aren’t alone. Most results are automated shop listings with zero reasoning behind them, or old forum threads packed with unexplained jargon.
I’m Phil Gaunt. I shoot competitively across the UK circuit, I’m based in Frodsham, Cheshire, and I hand-cut every band set I sell at Natty Catty Bands.
Here is the honest answer from someone on the competition line: there is no single “best” catapult (also called a slingshot). The best one is the one that suits your anchor point, your draw length and the ammo you want to shoot.
Here is how to figure out what setup actually works for you, without wasting money on gear you will outgrow in a fortnight.
What People Really Mean by “Best Catapult”
Usually, shooters are asking one of three things:
Which frame should I buy first to learn on?
Which frame will last a lifetime?
Which frame will actually help me hit what I am aiming at?
Those have completely different answers. Before looking at brands, get clear on what you want to do: casual plinking in the garden, target work, or formal competition. Once you know that, pick your ammo size first, because ammo dictates everything else.
Why Ammo Size Comes First
Your ammo dictates your bands, and your bands dictate how the entire setup shoots.
7mm steel: the gold standard for precision target work. Light, fast and low fatigue. I shoot 7mm with 0.45mm latex on an 18–12 taper.
8mm steel: the ultimate UK all-rounder. Great kinetic feedback on knockdowns and spinners, with a manageable draw weight. I shoot 8mm with 0.50mm latex on a 20–12 taper.
9.5mm steel: heavy steel for heavier targets and knockdowns. It needs more retraction power, typically 0.60mm to 0.70mm latex on a 20–15 taper.
Pick your ammo first, then build around it. Shooting heavy ammo through a band set made for light ammo gives you sluggish, dropping shots. Pulling heavily overpowered rubber for light ammo causes violent hand slap and will ruin your accuracy.
I fell into the heavy-band trap myself when I started out, and it cost me accuracy for a year before I figured out the real mechanics. You can read the full technical breakdown in my Master Band & Ammo Guide.
Your Anchor Point Matters More Than the Frame
Ammo decides your bands. Your anchor point decides your frame.
Your anchor point is where your drawing hand settles at full draw. A fixed anchor means your hand lands on the same spot every shot. A floating anchor means it doesn’t.
The best catapult is the one that suits your anchor point, whether it’s fixed or floating, short draw or long draw. In my experience, a natural tree fork can be just as accurate as the finest handmade or computer-designed frame.
Stick to one frame, the same bands and the same anchor point, and it will all slowly come together.
I use my cheekbone as my anchor point, and I found that 85mm wide frames suit that line-up for me.
A simple fork can work because of how OTT shooting works. On a pickle fork, the ammo goes over the forks and doesn’t pass through the gap, so the gap barely matters.
Frame Style: OTT vs TTF
Most UK catapult shooters shoot one of two styles:
OTT (over the top): the bands pull over the top face of the forks, and the ammo flies cleanly over the top. OTT frames can be narrower and more compact, and they give an unobstructed sight line down the band.
TTF (through the forks): the bands anchor around the outside edges of the forks, and the shot passes directly between them. It’s a traditional layout favoured by many instinctive and reference-point shooters.
Neither is universally superior. If you are brand new and unsure which layout fits your anchor point, grab an injection-moulded frame like the Wasp Enzo. It supports both configurations, so you can experiment affordably.
If you want a dedicated OTT or TTF frame, look at Leighton’s Cattys. Dan and Aaron make one of the biggest varieties of handmade frames out of North Wales, and their precision-crafted frames are what I personally trust on the competition line.
What About Wrist-Braced Wire Frame Catapults?
Almost every beginner in the UK asks about wire frames with wrist supports. The honest truth from modern competitive shooting: they are an outdated, slow and inaccurate design.
Heavy, sluggish tubes: those frames were built around thick, heavy surgical tubing. They take excessive physical effort to pull, snap forward slowly, and produce heavy hand slap and violent recoil.
Why the wrist brace exists: the brace exists mainly to counter the wrist strain caused by those inefficient, overpowered tubes. Modern flat latex pulls smoothly and effortlessly, so your wrist never fights the frame. A brace is unnecessary.
Banned in competition: wrist braces are prohibited under UKSA and WSA target competition rules. If you ever plan to shoot on an organised line or attend a club meet, you cannot use one.
Legal restrictions abroad: wrist-braced slingshots are prohibited weapons in Germany and in some Australian states and territories. Check the laws where you live. UK readers can start with my Safety & Law Guide.
If you want speed, clean sight lines and pinpoint accuracy, skip the heavy wire frames and invest in a modern flat-band setup.
Three Things to Check If You Buy a Frame
1. Fork width and symmetry. The fork tips must be square, level and identical. If one fork is slightly off, your band stretch won’t load evenly. For competition, I consistently run 85mm outside fork width frames, specifically my bare milled aluminium Leighton frame shot OTT, with a 720mm draw length and a 140mm active band length.
2. Clean band attachments. Whether you use wrap-and-tuck grooves or mechanical clip systems, examine where the latex meets the frame. Any burrs, sharp cast lines or rough machining will nick the latex and cut a band set’s life short.
3. Neutral ergonomics. The frame should lock naturally into your grip without forcing you to squeeze. Excess hand tension travels straight up your arm and makes shots wander off target.
Quick Buyer’s Checklist
Are catapults and slingshots the same thing?
Yes. “Catapult” is simply the common UK term for a modern slingshot.
What is the best catapult for a beginner?
A solid, versatile frame like the Wasp Enzo, or a dedicated frame from Leighton’s Cattys, paired with 8mm steel and matched 0.50mm flat latex bands.
Do heavier bands make you shoot better?
No. Overpowered bands add fatigue, cause violent hand slap and pull your shots offline. Matched, lighter bands consistently shoot flatter and in tighter groups.
Before you shoot: always review the legal framework and safe backstop practices in my Safety & Law Guide.
The Final Verdict
The best catapult is simply the one matched to your ammo, your anchor point and a band set tuned specifically for it. Check the fork alignment, check the band attachments, and let ammo size lead your decision.
If you already have a frame and aren’t sure which taper or thickness will give you the cleanest release, drop me a message via the Contact Page, or explore our competition-tuned setups in the Natty Catty Store.
