Frame & Setup
What is the best catapult/slingshot to buy?
The absolute best catapult is simply the one that fits your hand, your shooting style, and your facial anchor point the best. It could be a humble, natural tree fork that you cut and carve yourself, or a custom £350 frame from some of the world's best makers—one won't magically shoot better than the other just because of the cost. Price does not buy accuracy.
When looking at what the community actually shoots, many people opt for excellent injection-molded or HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene) frames from top manufacturers like Wasp, Leighton’s Cattys, and Hegarty.
Polymer / HDPE Frames: These are incredibly tough, lightweight, highly affordable, and can take a massive amount of abuse (including the occasional accidental fork hit) without ruining the frame.
The "Pro" Aluminum Versions: Some of these top manufacturers also offer "Pro" versions of their frames machined out of aluminum. While they look premium, the trade-off is that they weigh a bit more and they actually damage more easily. An accidental fork hit on an aluminum frame can leave sharp gouges that will slice your latex, whereas HDPE handles impacts much better.
What matters most is that the frame width suits your alignment, the grip feels comfortable and secure, and your bands are perfectly matched to your ammunition.
What is the difference between wrap-and-tuck vs. clipped frames?
How you secure your bands to the frame completely changes your setup routine, and it mostly comes down to personal preference:
Clipped Frames: These are incredibly quick, easy, and convenient. They use a built-in clamping mechanism or a screw-down clip to lock the latex in place, making band changes at the range a matter of seconds. They are fantastic for beginners or anyone who values speed and convenience.
Wrap-and-Tuck Frames: This is the traditional method where you wrap a thin strip of latex tightly around the fork tip to bind the band down, tucking the end under itself to lock it. While it takes a bit of practice and takes longer to do, many experienced shooters heavily prefer wrap-and-tuck frames. It is incredibly reliable, completely secure, and removes any mechanical parts that could wear out or strip a thread over time.
What is your signature band style?
Our signature shop build is the "Parallel-Ends" style. It offers an incredibly clean draw, excellent stability, and optimized energy transfer for precision target shooting.
Can I get custom tapers not listed on the site?
Yes, but please note that these will be cut normal with a straight ruler taper. While we have an extensive range of standard precut templates available—including 25-20, 23-17, 20-15, 20-12, 18-12, 18-10, and 15-10—we cut everything by hand to order. If you need a specific custom straight taper or a precise active length for your exact draw, just drop us a message before ordering and we’ll sort it out for you.
What pouch size is best for my ammo?
Choosing the right pouch size ensures a clean release and maximum accuracy. As a general rule:
44mm pouch: Best for ammo up to 7mm.
55mm pouch: Best for 8mm ammo.
65mm pouch: Best for bigger, heavier ammo sizes.
Why it matters: Having a pouch that is too big acts like a parachute, catching the air, creating drag, and severely slowing down your shot. You want the smallest, lightest pouch possible that still safely fits your ammo size.
What are your pouches made of, and do you offer pit pouches?
Most of our standard pouches are made from high-quality microfiber. However, if you struggle with a clean release or consistency, we also offer pit pouches to help keep the ammo perfectly centered in the pouch. We have three different sizes available: 7mm, 8mm, and 9.5mm.
The trade-off: The downside of a pit pouch is that they are a bit heavier, and that reduces the speed transferred from the bands to the ammo.
If you want a pit pouch on your bandset, just request what size you want when ordering, and we will fit it for you.
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